Spring
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Site
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q
Wait
until the last frost to set out seedlings.
q
Prune away any winter-kill; remove plantings if they have died.
q
Tune
up the lawn mower.
q
Fill
in any site erosion and re-seed.
q
Be
sure all surface water drains away from your house.
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Trim back
unruly landscaping.
q
Check your
mailbox, fencing, walkways, patios, arbors, etc. for needed maintenance.
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Does your
deck need to be cleaned and sealed? Are the handrails sound? |
q
Check the health of your big trees, if there are any dying or diseased,
have them removed now. It will be dangerous to go up onto a thoroughly
dead tree and you may not find anyone willing to do it. The time to do it
is when their branches can still be relied on to support a man.
q
Have your
asphalt driveway sealed.
q
Replace
worn or missing fibrous expansion strips between your concrete driveway
and garage floor.
q
Is it time
to resurface your concrete driveway or walkway? Winter freeze-thaw cycles
may have left these surfaces pitted, chipped, or cracked. |
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Foundation
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q
Check that crawlspace, what’s going on under there? Do you have standing
water? Mold or fungus? Put a vapor barrier down if you do not already have
one and use a mildewcide or fungicide now. Be sure your crawlspace is
getting fresh air. Have any critters taken up residence?
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q
Identify any basement leaks.
q
Do your
basement walls have any cracks that need sealing? If any cracks are 3/16”
or wider, or if you have any long horizontal cracks, better consult an
expert now.
q
Is your
basement or crawlspace insulated? |
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Framing/Exterior
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q
Look
for signs of insect activity, especially in crawlspace framing and around
the floor-framing perimeter.
q
Look for
cracked joists or rafters.
q
Look for
sagging headers or tilting walls; then get expert advice.
q
Is your
brickwork in need of mortar repointing? Are there damaged bricks that need
to be replaced?
q
How long
has it been since your brick work was water sealed? Resealing is usually
done every 5 to 8 years.
q
Secure any loose sections of vinyl or aluminum siding; replace damaged
sections.
q
Caulk around windows, doors, utility line entrances, and vents.
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q
Does your
siding or trim need repainting? It is easier to do it regularly than have
to replace rotted or damaged sections later, when you finally get around
to it, or to discover that the continued water entry has begun to rot the
underlying framing.
q
Replace cracked or broken windows.
q
Upgrade to modern low-E insulated windows.
q
Put
in your storm windows before cold weather.
q
Look
into the possibility of retrofitting insulation into sidewalls of your
wonderful old house. Add insulation to floor of your unfinished attic.
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Repair damaged stucco.
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Roof
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q
Clean gutters and downspouts.
q
Be
sure gutters and downspouts are securely attached. The weight of winter
ice often pulls gutters and downspouts loose.
q
Be
sure the roof is water tight-are shingles missing or cracked? Is any
flashing rusted through?
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Check under the roof; are there any signs of leaking there?
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q
Look
at your chimney or flu stack; any visible damage?
q
Are
any trees rubbing against your roof?
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Be
sure your bath vents, kitchen vents and dryer vents go all the way
outside, not just into your attic. The bath vents should be insulated to
prevent condensation in cold weather.
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Electrical
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q
Check your outdoor receptacles to make sure they are watertight; if you
have painted over them the gaskets will be stiff and cannot be counted on
to be watertight.
q
Put
bulbs in any open outdoor light sockets; replace burned-out bulbs. Check
to see that they have a weather-protective globe or surround if that is
their design.
q
Take
those pennies out from behind your fuses! It’s time for a wiring upgrade.
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q
If
you are constantly blowing fuses or tripping circuit breakers, or your
lights occasionally flicker or dim, have your system checked by a licensed
electrician.
q
Install GFCI receptacles by your sinks and lavatories, in the garage, and
at outdoor receptacles. Inexpensive and relatively easy, it can be done
even on older two-prong ungrounded systems. Have an electrician do it if
you are unsure how. You deserve this modern protection.
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Plumbing
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q
Check your garden hose and repair leaks and damaged connectors. Replace
old rubber gaskets.
q
Insulate your water supply lines-hot and cold; cold lines may sweat
profusely in summer.
q
Test
your water supply, not just for well owners; municipal supplies may be
compromised too. An annual test is smart.
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If
you have a septic tank, have your septic system inspected and pumped out
if necessary. Depending on your tank’s size, field system, and use, the
tank may need to be pumped very one to five years.
q
Have
those slow drip leaks fixed.
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q
Insulate your water heater.
q
Be
sure your sump pump works. A battery backup will run the pump even if a
storm knocks the power out.
q
If
your water heater does not have a temperature and pressure release valve,
or a pipe running from this valve to near the floor, have one installed
now, don’t risk scalding or catastrophic tank rupture.
q
Fix
any leaky valves and tighten any loose fixture attachments. If you smell
sewer gas around your drains, tighten those loose seals or consult a
plumber to find the cause.
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Heating and Air
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q
Uncover your air conditioner after daytime temperatures are steadily in
the 60s, then switch on the circuit breaker to the A/C unit.
q
Have
a heating contractor inspect and ready your cooling system for the coming
season. Be sure the system is fully charged with refrigerant. Straighten
bent cooling fins. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for filter
maintenance.
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q
Be
sure all ductwork seams are tightly sealed with foil tape.
q
Install smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors; be sure batteries
are good in those you may already have.
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